Informatics Publishing Limited

Jyoti Singla ¹, Saroj S. Jeet Singh ¹, Neelam M. Rose ¹, Krishna Khambra ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, I.c. College of Home Sciences, C.C.S. Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar, Haryana, IN

Abstract

Colour fastness of fabric is very important aspect as end use of fabrics depends on this property. A study was conducted to investigate the colour fastness properties of tie-dyed cotton fabric using reactive dye. The tie-dyed samples were evaluated for colour fastness to washing, rubbing, light and perspiration using the methods prescribed by the Bureau of Indian Standards. The fabric was dyed with reactive dye in two dye concentrations i.e., 2 per cent and 4 per cent. In 2 per cent dye concentration, the washing fastness was excellent whereas in 4 per cent it was very good. Sunlight fastness was good in both 2 per cent and 4 per cent dye concentrations. Acidic perspiration fastness was good in both the dye concentrations and alkaline perspiration fastness was very good in 2 per cent dye concentration and it was fairly good in 4 per cent dye concentration. Dry rubbing fastness was excellent in both dye concentrations i.e. 2 and 4 per cent of reactive dye and wet rubbing fastness was very good with both the dye concentrations. The results concluded that colour fastness of the samples dyed with lower percentage gave better fastness than higher percentage indicating that more dye ions hinders the absorption of dye by the fabric.

Keywords

Reactive Dye, Colour Fastness, Dye Concentration

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Punam Rani ¹, Neelam M. Rose ¹, Saroj S. Jeet Singh ¹, Saroj Yadav ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, I.c. College of Home Sciences, C.C.S. Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar, Haryana, IN

Abstract

Colour and designs have been used to enhance the intrinsic beauty of textiles from ancient time. It is believed that ornamentation by dyeing and printing developed earlier than the use of clothing itself. Design is the knowledgeable selection and application of the basic art elements i.e., line, shape, colour and texture to produce a unified expressive visual statement. Screen printing is a versatile process for design applications on textiles. The present study was conducted to develop designs for saree suitable for screen printing. Thirty one Chinese motifs were identified for application in textiles comprising of 11 geometrical, 12 floral and 8 animal/birds motifs and created on computer using software Corel DRAW 9. Created motifs were got evaluated from 30 experts and 5 top ranked motifs were selected from each category. Selected motifs were used for development of 22 designs suitable for application on saree-blouse through screen printing. Out of 22 designs, 6 designs were finally selected for application on saree which were placed with all possible variations. These design arrangements were again shown to the experts to seek their preferences. Placement of saree border with scattered motifs (4.60) was preferred most followed by overall placement (3.96) and border placement (3.94).

Keywords

Chinese Motifs, Saree, Screen Printing, Computer Aided Designing

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Saroj Yadav ¹, Neelam M. Rose ¹, Saroj S. Jeet Singh ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, I.c. College of Home Sciences, C.C.S. Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar, Haryana, IN

Abstract

Since the last one and half decade, application of natural dyes on different fabrics viz., cotton, wool, silk, jute and some blends, etc. is gaining popularity all over the world in light of famous German ban. Only dyeing and producing a colour range for different fabrics is not enough it is equally important to study the effect of dyeing on various physical properties of the dyed fabric as end use of different fabrics depend on these properties. Thus, a study was conducted to investigate the effect of dye obtained from rein wardtia flowers on physical properties of silk fabric. The fabric was dyed and post mordanted with stannous chloride, ferrous sulphate, Indian gooseberry and Babool. From the experiment, it was found that general appearance, lusture and texture of dyed fabric were good. In case of fabric thickness, weight, count and flexural rigidity and crease recovery angle the dyed and mordanted samples showed increase in the properties. Breaking strength and elongation of all the samples except ferrous sulphate mordanted increased in both warp and weft directions.

Keywords

Natural Dye, Physical Properties, Silk Fabric, Lusture, Texture

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Saloni ¹, Neelam M. Rose ²

Affiliations
1 Singhania University, Pacheri Bari, Jhunjhunu, Rajasthan, IN
2 College of Home Science, CCS HAU, Hisar, IN

Abstract

Clothing is an important area of personal satisfaction. Fashion reflects the ever changing culture. The present study conducted on working and non- working women of Haryana of four major cities. They were interviewed through a well structured questioner with objective in mind to assess influence of trade globalisation on fashion adoption and purchasing practices of women of Haryana. The study concluded that majority that foreign branded cosmetics were preferred by the maximum number of working women whereas these were used by comparatively less number of non-working women. Foreign branded purses were preferred by working and non-working women. Respondents' opinion regarding imported goods it is observed that majority of the working and non-working women experienced increase in availability of the imported goods. Views of the respondents regarding the change experienced in type/quantity/variety of clothing items after 2000 says that large number of working women felt change in type/quantity/variety of cosmetics followed by cardigans and shoes and sandals whereas 80 percent non-working women experienced change in type/quality/variety of cosmetics and slips followed by tops, shoes and sandals. The response for improvement in quality and variety of different items was positive by more than 50 percent of working and non-working women. Reasons for preference of imported garments over Indian garments by the respondents it is clear from the results that 'better quality' of the imported garments was the most important reason for preferring those to Indian garments followed by 'better style' by the non-working women and 'don't easily become common' by the working women. Other reasons for preferring imported garments were better fitting, symbol of status and economical.

Keywords

Globalization Impact, Fashion Adoption

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Saloni ¹, Neelam M. Rose ²

Affiliations
1 Singhania University, Pacheri Bari, Jhunjhunu, Rajasthan, IN
2 College of Home Science, CCSHAU, Hisar, IN

Abstract

The present study conducted on working and non- working women of Haryana of four major cities. They were interviewed through a well structured questioner with objective in mind to study the motives governing fashion adoption and motives governing purchasing behaviour. The data calculated and analyzed s revealed that desire for attractive appearance was given the highest rank by both working and non-working women followed by desire for social success by working women and desire prosperous looks by non-working women. Desire for prestige was considered least important by all the respondents. Apprehensions experienced by the working and non-working women while wearing out dated clothing items data indicate that fears or worries like 'under estimation at the first impression' followed by 'estimation of lack of good tastes' were experienced by the respondents when wearing outdated clothing items. Worries related to 'estimation of lack of self respect' was least experienced by all the respondents. Opinion of the working and non-working women regarding impact of wearing out dated garments all the respondents feel self-conscious when wearing outdated clothes. 'Feel uncomfortable to move freely in a crowd' was given second rank by the working women corresponding to the second rank given to 'feel uneasy and odd' by non-working women. According to a least number of respondents the use of out dated clothes 'made no difference'. Preferences of the respondents for changing the style of dress due to copying by inferiors it was found that working and non-working changed the style of dress due to copying by inferiors.

Keywords

Fashion Adoption Behavior, Women

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Hema Sati ¹, Neelam M. Rose ¹, Saroj S. Jeet Singh ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, I.C. College of Home Science, CCS Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar, Haryana, IN

Abstract

Sun is essential for supporting life on earth and is critical for human physical and psychological well-being. The solar radiation that reaches the earth's consists of Infrared, Visible light and Ultraviolet radiation. Too less human exposure to solar UV radiations causes skeletal diseases whereas prolonged human exposure to solar UV radiation may result in acute and chrome health effects on the skin, eye and immune system and thereby enhance the risk of infectious diseases and limit the efficacy of vaccinations. Both of these act against the health of poor and vulnerable groups, especially children. Even though the incidence of skin cancer is lower in dark-skinned people however they are susceptible to the damaging effects of UV radiation, especially to the effects on the eye and immune system. It is believed that the right clothing gives better protection and allow for a more comprehensive approach to UV protection. Thus, recently attempts for establishing adequate UV protection through recommendation on change in clothing behaviour and personal protection, environment, and legislation has been made. Public education and awareness in UV protection is crucial for advancing people's knowledge about the health risks of excessive exposure to UV radiations in order to achieve change in their attitude and behavior. In developed countries, public awareness about the harmful effects of excessive exposure to the sun has grown considerably in recent years. But in Asian countries like India no such effort has been made so far and public have limited awareness amongst UV protection. Thus, an attempt has been made to bring a change in clothing related attitude and behavior of consumers through present study. An awareness package was developed and dissemination of awareness among consumers about UV protection through textiles and clothing was done, questionnaire was administered to measure the pre and post knowledge level of the respondents regarding UV protection provided through textiles and clothing. The results indicate very limited awareness about UV protection through textiles and clothing and a significantly higher knowledge gain after awareness campaign and distribution of awareness package indicating the significant effectiveness of developed package.

Keywords

Health Risk, Ultraviolet Protection, Clothing Behaviour, Consumers, Awareness Package.

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Mona Verma ¹, Saroj S. Jeet Singh ¹, Neelam M. Rose ¹, Rajvir Singh ²

Affiliations
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, I. C. College of Home Science, CCS HAU, Hisar, Haryana, IN
2 Department of Biochemistry, Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar, Haryana, IN

Abstract

Natural dyes have better bio degradability and generally have higher compatibility with the environment. They are non toxic, non-allergic to skin, non-carcinogenic, easily available and renewable. Color fastness is the resistance of a material to change any of its color characteristics or extent of transfer of its colorants to adjacent white materials in touch. Generally light fastness, wash fastness and rub fastness are considered for textile fibers. The outer skin of onion contains different phytochemicals which are responsible for giving colour, antimicrobial and antioxidant properties to the fabric. In this study, natural colourants were extracted using different solvents. The dye potential of the colourants obtained from the onion skin dye was evaluated by colouring cotton fabric. Bio mordanting of cotton fabric was done by using biopolymer before dyeing to improve the dyeabilty of cotton fabric with natural dye. L*, a*, b*, C*and H* values and k/s value was studied. Study about the different fastness tests were undertaken by using standard test methods. The chitosan treated cotton fabric showed higher k/s value. Good light fastness, wash fastness, rubbing fastness and perspiration fastness. From an ecological point of view, dyeing of cotton fabric with natural dye with bio mordanting may better alternative to conventional mordanting with chemicals.

Keywords

Chitosan, Onion Skin Dye, Cotton, Dyeing, Natural Dye.

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Poonam Kumari ¹, Neelam M. Rose ², Saroj S. Jeet Singh ²

Affiliations
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, I.C. College of Home Science, C.C.S. Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar (Haryana), IN
2 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, I.C. College of Home Science, C.C.S. Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar (Haryana), IN

Abstract

Natural fragrant microcapsule with gelatin and gum as a wall material palmarosa as a core material were prepared by complex cocervation technique. Different variables, including ratio of essential oil, gum, gelatin, temperature and pH were optimized on the basis of comparative analysis through visual assessment under inverted microscope. Result showed that medium sized microcapsules having sharp and thick wall and good uniformity in size and distribution were formed at ratio of 1:2:4 of oil, gum and gelatin, at a temperature of 50°C with initial and final pH 4.5 and 9.0, respectively. Hence, these optimized ratios were selected for preparation of microcapsules.

Keywords

Cocervation Technique, Gelatin, Microcapsule, Palmarosa Oil.

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Poonam Kumari ¹, Neelam M. Rose ¹, Saroj S. Jeet Singh ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, I.C. College of Home Science CCS Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar, Haryana, IN

Abstract

In this study woven cotton fabric is treated with geranium oil microcapsules through pad dry cure technique to incorporate aroma finish. Geranium oil microcapsules were prepared by complex cocervation technique. Abrasion resistance and wash durability of aroma finished fabric was tested and analysis for retention of aroma was carried out by olfactory analysis done by 25 respondents. Analysis for presence of microcapsules was done through Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM). Wash fastness and abrasion resistance of aroma finished fabric by oil microcapsules with pad-dry-cure technique were tested against the fabric finished by direct method. The findings of the present study revealed that wash fastness and abrasion resistance has increased manifold in fabric treated with oil microcapsules as compared to direct method. On the surface of microencapsulated treated fabric numerous microcapsules containing geranium essential oil inside the matrix varying in their size and shapes were found, however in case of direct method some residue of citric acid was observed by SEM.

Keywords

Aroma Finish, Direct Method, Microencapsulation, Wash Durability and Abrasion Resistance.

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Bharti Rani ¹, Saroj Yadav ¹, Neelam M. Rose ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Textile & Apparel Designing, I.C. College of Home Science, CCS Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar, Haryana, IN

Abstract

Macrame is a form of textile-making by series ofknots rather than the typical way of weaving or knitting. It is a wonderful way of expressing creativity, personal style and individuality by creating designs through combinations of knots. This knotting technique can be used for producing many diversified products like decorative items, jewellery, fashion accessories such as belt, bangle hanger, hand bag, shoe bag, shrugs, foot wears, candle holder, bottle holder, vertical garden plant hanger, wall hanging, cushion covers, curtains etc. Thus, the present study was undertaken to develop the partition curtains using Macrame technique and assess their consumer's acceptability. Selected five knot combination designs comprising of double half hitch knot, half knot, flat knot and popcorn knot in different combinations were used for development of designs for partition curtains. Total thirty designs of partition curtains, were created in CorelDRAW 12 software. As per the preferences of experts five designs of curtain were selected and five partition curtains were developed through Macrame technique using selected designs, cost of each curtain was calculated separately including cost of raw material and labour charges. The developed Macrame curtains were got assessed from thirty consumers on different parameters using three point rating scale. The cost of developed curtains ranged from Rs. 1203/- to 1507/-. The factors responsible for variability in the total cost of curtains were the cost of cords, beads and labour charges involved in preparation of curtains. The results indicated that the developed Macrame partition curtain were found highly appealing in terms of design, knot combination and overall appearance as indicated by weighted mean score values above (2.33). Consumers highly appreciated the developed curtains in relation to being attractive and unique, suitability of Macrame technique, materials used and selected knot combination for development of partition curtains. The developed designs maintained the beauty of macrame technique, as per trend and had good market potential. Majority of the respondents reported that cost of developed curtains was appropriate. The women both from rural or urban backgrounds have leisure time, which can be productively and creatively utilized if indulge in learning and making of Macrame articles. Hence, this art form can help them in using their leisure time and even generating income.

Keywords

Macrame, Partition Curtains, Assessment and Acceptability.

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Neelam Saini ¹, Saroj Yadav ¹, Neelam M. Rose ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, I.C. College of Home Science, CCS Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar 125 024, IN

Abstract

Recycling is the process of producing new products with additional qualities from old materials which are no more in use. Furthermore, the decreasing natural resources forced researchers to produce new synthetic products from waste products using new technologies. This study compares the physical properties of yarns and fabrics produced using blends of fresh and recycled fibres/fabrics of wool, acrylic and polyester; these were used to manufacture fabrics through weaving technique. Physical properties of yarns, i.e. tensile strength, twist per inch of fabrics, i.e. tensile strength, elongation and bending length were measured and statistically analysed. The results showed that the physical properties of recycled yarns and fabrics were comparable to control/fresh yarns and fabrics. The strength of recycled yarns and fabrics was little different than control products. Thus, recycled yarns and fabrics can be used for the production of woollen apparels with suitable properties like smooth texture, appeal, etc.

Keywords

Fabrics, Physical Properties, Recycling, Yarns.

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Pooja Rani ¹, Saroj Yadav ¹, Neelam M. Rose ¹, Vandana Bhandari ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, I.C. College of Home Science, CCS Haryana Agriculture University, Hisar, Haryana, IN

Abstract

India had always been known as the land that portrayed cultural and traditional vibrancy through its conventional arts and crafts. Folk art in India apparently has a great potential in the international market because of its traditional aesthetic sensibility and authenticity. Madhubani painting is the one of those folk art forms known for its beauty and elegance. Thirty designs developed using traditional Madhubani motifs were arranged on stoles in different styles and five colour ways for each selected placement were prepared. Five stoles were developed through screen printing and hand embroidery using selected design placements and colour ways. The prepared stoles were assessed by a panel of30 consumers on different assessment parameters, viz., motifs, designs, placements and colour ways for their potential marketability. The average weighted mean score of all the developed stoles ranged from 2.49 to 2.58 indicated that all the developed stoles were very enthralling and accepted by consumers on different assessment parameters. The cost of the stoles ranged from Rs 1300/- to 1450/- which was rated appropriate by all the consumers. Thus, the effort provided an imaginative and fresh collection to the consumers who want to adopt their tradition with minute modernization. Also this would help in the preservation of painting tradition as well as broaden the marketability of the designed products.

Keywords

Madhubani Painting, Stole, Screenprinting, Embroidery, Acceptability.

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